is a process in which the yarn is knitted up wards
instead of a single row, following the adjacent columns known as
wales. In warp knitting the total number of individual yarns is
equal to the total stitches in a row. Warp knitting is done only
by a machine, not by hand.
Warp knitting comprises many kinds of fabrics, such as raschel
knits, tricot, and milanese knits. Tricot is usually used in
lingerie making. Milanese is firmer, stable, smoother and costly
than tricot, so it is utilized in high-end lingerie. Raschel
knits are not so stretchable and are usually bulky, so they are
normally used in making unlined material like jackets, coats,
dresses and straight skirts.
History of warp knitting
Two names, William Lee and Karl Mayer are considerably related
with the commencement of warp knitting. In 1589 William Lee
applied for patent of his first machine for making knitted
articles, in that way he laid the foundations for mechanical
manufacturing and making the technical base to develop warp
In 1947, the insightful entrepreneur and mechanic, Karl Mayer
showed off first warp knitting loom. The FM 48 was compiled two
guide bars, and with bearded needles, attained a speed of 200
rpm. It marked the starting of technical era in pioneering leaps
in the field of warp knitting.
Karl Mayer, in 1953 launched his company's first raschel
loom into the factories. These warp knitting machines was
working with upto four guide bars, used a four-roll take up
system to allow fabric beams alterations without stopping the
machine. It had a pattern-box with pattern discs or chain
elements. The technology of these high-performing warp knitting
machines were enhanced from one generation to the other,
considering to improvise the product technology, equipping for
added facilities like blind lap tools for producing knitted
plisse, or sinkers with two pieces, and easily movable sinkers
or pattern pressers.
The market witnessed inventions of new machines in the year
1954, the first elastic raschel machine and first tulle raschel
knitting machine. In 1955 'Super Garant' series marked
its name on the market. 1956 saw the first warp knitted lace
machine, featuring 12 guide bars. First curtain raschel machine
was introduced in 1958 and first carpet raschel machine in 1959.
The success story continued in 1967 with a launch of the first
fall plate multibar raschel machine and jacquard raschel machine
weft insertion, along with other series. Following gradual
developments led more diversity into the product range of lace
raschel machines. A significant move in this process was the
execution of the jacquard theory in warp knitting.
The lace raschel machines were working with nearly 57 guide bars
by the year 1981. This series was first ever set with an
electronic control system. In the starting of 80s, the summator,
an electromechanical pattern guide bar control was introduced.
The summator included slide elements, featuring defined curves
on the end surfaces. Now, a pattern control computer conquest
the work of supervising the pattern guide bars.
For a long period this technology was followed in the
'Jacquardtronic' and 'Textronic' series of lace
raschel machines, with up to 78 guide-bars. Alike these
developments, enhance also had been witnessed on the ground of
automatic warp knitting machines.
In 2003, the new generation machines in the warp knitting were
displayed at ITMA, Birmingham. The machines were equipped with
individual motors to feed thread, fabric take-up and rolling-up,
with all easy navigation. All machines had network systems with
latest computers. The computer merges a motion control and a PLC
for machines sequence control.
The user can operate knitting machine through Internet
and intranet communication. Among the others, one computer is
using ALC's 'ProCad' software, which guarantees
well-organized pattern creation and error free online connection
to machines. In addition, ALC software PROFAB and PDA computer
also presents output data management facilities.
Two next generation technologies are introduced in the
field warp knitting. The HKS3-M knitting machine complies
continuous thread supervising, utilizing the scanning system and
Protechna, an independent thread stabilization system for loose
threads, and the roll-ups. It works on the base of specific and
constantly variable selection of stitch range, featuring
continuous winding tension and tremendously uniform package
structure excluding complicated gear-wheel changes.
knitting, production of fabric by employing a continuous
yarn or set of yarns to form a series of interlocking loops.
Knit fabrics can generally be stretched to a greater degree than
woven types. The two basic types of knits are the weft, or
filling knits—including plain, rib, purl, pattern, and double
knits—and the warp knits—including tricot, raschel, and
milanese. In knitting, a wale is a column of loops running
lengthwise, corresponding to the warp of woven fabric; a course
is a crosswise row of loops, corresponding to the filling.
- Created: 23-12-21
- Last Login: 23-12-21